Sun Care Formulary
Viscosity (Brookfield RVDV-II, spindle 4, 6rpm, one minute,
20°C):.........................................................................................13,200 cP
Stability:......................................................... two months @ RT and 45°C
Source: ANGUS
Moisturizing Body Milk
(Formula # 100-143D)
Description:
For after-sun exposure, this has a very light, milky texture that is super
high-oil load yet non-greasy and fast-absorbing. Trends it supports:
natural, well beauty, well aging, men’s grooming, clean beauty, minimal
ingredients and J-beauty. Suitable for a trigger spray.
Trade Name/INCI Designation.......................................................%w/w
Part A
Deionized Water/(Water)................................................................... 63.70
Sodium Phytate/(Sodium Phytate)........................................................0.10
FiberDesign Sensation/(Citrus Limon Lemon Peel Powder and
Sclerotium Gum)1...............................................................................0.20
StarDesign Power/(Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate and Hydroxypropyl
Starch Phosphate)1..............................................................................1.50
Glycerin/(Glycerin)................................................................................2.00
Part B
Meadowfoam Seed Oil or Meadowfoam XPR/(Limnanthes Alba
Meadowfoam Seed Oil)2................................................................ 30.00
Emultop Velvet IP/(Lecithin)1...............................................................1.50
Part C
CustoCide PE815/(Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin)3...........1.00
Suppliers:
1Cargill Beauty Products
2Natural Plant Products
3Custom Ingredients
Procedure:
Prepare Parts A and B separately. Add B to A while homogenizing for five
minutes. Add C with moderate propeller stirring.
Properties:
Stability:.........................................................................six months at 45°C
Source: Natural Plant Products, Inc.
Description:
This pump spray emulsion offers SPF 50 (expected) protection with a
light and sheer finish. SolAmaze Natural polymer is bio-based, biodegradable,
film-forming polymer that offers superior water resistance and pleasing
aesthetics for high SPF emulsion sunscreens. DRY-FLO TS starch
provides a smooth and silky skin feel despite a large UV-filter load. Can
be packaged in a mist sprayer with pump.
Trade Name/INCI Designation.......................................................%w/w
Part A
Deionized Water/(Aqua)..................................................................... 52.75
Dissolvine NA2-S chelate/(Disodium EDTA)1.....................................0.05
40 Spray May 2021
Pemulen EZ-4U/(Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Crosspolymer)2................................................................................ 0.05
Part B
Finsolv TN/(C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate)3............................................... 5.00
EI Octyl Palmitate/(Ethylhexyl Palmitate)4....................................... 2.00
Neo Heliopan 357/(Avobenzone)5.................................................... 3.00
Neo Heliopan OS/(Ethylhexyl Salicylate)5........................................ 5.00
Neo Heliopan HMS/(Homosalate)5................................................ 13.00
Neo Heliopan 303/(Octocrylene)5.................................................... 8.00
Arlacel 165/(Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate)6.................. 3.50
SolAmaze Natural polymer/(Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer
Dilinoleate and Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)1...........................2.20
Part C
Deionized Water/(Water Aqua)...................................................... 2.00
Triethanolamine 99%/(Triethanolamine)7....................................... 0.30
Part D
50% Citric Acid Solution/(Citric Acid and Water)........................0.15
Part E
Euxyl PE 9010/(Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerin)8............. 0.50
DRY-FLO TS Starch/(Tapioca Starch and
Polymethylsilsesquioxane)1.............................................................. 2.50
Suppliers:
1Nouryon
2Lubrizol Advanced Materials
3Innospec Active Chemicals
4Essential Ingredients
5Symrise
6Croda, Inc.
7Dow Chemical
8Schülke & Mayr GmbH
Procedure:
Part A: Charge the main kettle with water and add Dissolvine NA2-S
under a homogenizer. Sprinkle in Pemulen EZ-4U and mix until fully
dispersed. Begin heating to 75–80°C with moderate mixing. In a side
kettle, combine and mix Part B. Heat to 75–80°C with moderate
propeller mixing. Once Part B is uniform and temperature reaches 75–
80°C, add Part B to Part A and emulsify for 10 minutes with moderate
homogenization (3,000 rpms). Begin cooling the batch to 65°C. Pre-mix
Part C and slowly add to the emulsion at 65–70°C. Mix with moderate
to high homogenization for five minutes until dispersed. Lower the
mixing to a speed that allows sufficient bulk turnover. Part D: Once the
batch reaches 45°C, adjust pH with Citric Acid to 6.5 with moderate
homogenization speed until dispersed and uniform. Part E: When the
batch reaches 45°C or below, add Euxyl PE 9010 and mix well. Sift in
DRY-FLO TS starch and mix until homogeneous. Switch batch to an
overhead sweep mixing blade at 20 rpm and cool to 25°C.
Properties:
Appearance:.............................................................thin, white emulsion
pH:.................................................................................................6.0–7.0
Viscosity (Brookfield):...............................600-1,000 cps, RV 2, 10 rpms
Source: Nouryon
See New Ingredients
for Sun Care on page 20
Sheer Sun Spray Lotion SPF 50 (expected)
(Formula # 2823-24)