April 2018 Spray 33
Part C
Demineralized Water.............................................................. 35.14
Glycerin................................................................................... 15.00
Structure Solanace/ (Potato Starch Modified)3........................ 1.00
Satiaxane Cx91/ (Xanthan Gum)4............................................ 0.10
Part D
Perfume Fresh Lemon 1028971/ (Parfum)5............................. 0.30
Unicert Red 07004 J (1.0% Sol.)/ (Water, Red 4).................... 0.12
Unicert Yellow 08005-J (1.0% Sol.)/ (Water, Yellow 5)........... 0.70
Gatuline Skin-Repair Bio/ (Water, Alcohol, Onopordum
Acanthium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract)1................................. 2.00
Suppliers:
1Gattefossé
2 BASF
3AkzoNobel
4Cargill
5Expressions Parfumées
Procedure:
Add Eumulgin SG into water of Part B and heat under very low
mixing (to avoid foam) until complete dissolution. Add Structure
Solanace to Water and Glycerin of Part C, then mix and heat to
75°C. Continue mixing for about five minutes. Under mixing, add
Satiaxane CX91 to Part C. Add B to C and heat to 75°C. Prepare A
and heat to 75°C. Under rapid mixing (Rotor/Stator 3000 rpm), add
A to B+C. Continue rapid mixing for about 10 minutes, then cool. At
about 35°C, add ingredients of D.
Properties:
Aspect:............................................................ Yellow orange lotion
pH:...................................................................................... 7.6 ± 0.5
Viscosity............................. Brookfield RV (spindle A, speed five):
approx. 4,400 mPa.s after 24h
Source: Gattefossé
Intelligent Skin Booster
(Formula # CN0043)
Description:
This Intelligent Skin Booster contains the patented active ingredient
Optim Hyal, which helps maintain a young and optimal hyaluronic
acid renewal to moisturize and increase skin suppleness. Together
with Volarest FL, a unique rheology modifier, this skin boosting gel
can reach your skin in an even spray, making sure it remains supple
and hydrated.
Trade Name/INCI Designation..............................................%w/w
Part A
Volarest FL/ (Acrylates/Beheneth-25
Methacrylate Copolymer)1.......................................................... 1.5
Pricrerine 9091/ (Glycerin)1........................................................ 5.0
Renex G26/ (Glycereth-26)1.......................................................... 5.0
Deionized Water........................................................................To 10
Part B
Optim Hyal/ (Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract and
Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose and Polyglucuronic Acid
and Lecithin)1........................................................................... 3.0
10% NaOH.............................................................. Qs (pH 6.7–7.0)
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin................................ 0.5
Suppliers:
1Croda/ Sederma
Procedure:
Under room temperature, add Pricerine 9091, Renex G26 and
Volarest FL into deionized water, add 10%NaOH with stirring until
the solution becomes transparent, thickened at pH 6.7–7.0. Add Part
B ingredients one at a time with stirring.
Properties:
Appearance:......................................................Pale yellow clear gel
pH:.................................................................................................. 6.7
Viscosity: ..................6100mpa.s (Brookfield LVDV-I+, spindle 03,
12rpm, 1 minute, 20°C)
Stability:.. two months at room temp, 5°C, -5°C, 0°C, 45°C, -18°C
Source: Croda
Self-foaming Cushion Feel Cleanser & Makeup Remover
(Formula # ASC-33-42-7)
Description: This pump-foaming, sulfate-free cleanser and makeup
remover uses Ajinomoto’s Amilite surfactant, which is derived from
amino acids. Amilite has excellent foaming properties, even in the
presence of oils. Amisafe AL-01 is an arginine-based amphoteric
surfactant that provides foam stability and high skin conditioning
properties. Ajidew NL-50 is a humectant derived from amino acids
with excellent skin moisturization properties. Eldew SL-205 is an
amino acid-based, light-sensory feel emollient that helps with the
easy cleansing of makeup, oil, sebum and dirt buildup on skin. It
imparts a velvety and non-greasy sensory feel.
Trade Name/INCI Designation..............................................%w/w
Part A
Amilite ACS-12/ (Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate,
Potassium Cocoate, Water)1..................................................... 25.0
CAPB........................................................................................... 5.0
Part B
Amisafe AL-01/ (Lauroyl Arginine)1........................................ 0.05
Vanzan NF-C/ (Xanthan Gum)2............................................... 0.05
DI Water.................................................................................. 50.45
Part C
Zemea Propanediol/ (Propanediol)3.......................................... 10.0
Eldew SL-205/ (Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate)1.................... 0.35
Ajidew NL-50/ (Sodium PCA)1................................................... 2.0
Part D
Fragrance/ (Orange Ginger)4.................................................... 0.10
Botanistat PF-64/ (Phenoxyethanol, Capryl Glycol,
Ethylhexylglyerin,
Hexylene Glycol)5........................................................................ 1.0
50% citric acid solution............................................... q.s to pH 6.8
Suppliers:
1Ajinomoto North America Inc.
2Vanderbilt Minerals
3DuPont Tate & Lyle
4Continental Aromatics
5Botanigenics (Dist. DD Chemco)
Procedure:
Charge a vessel with Part B. Mix well using a propeller at room
temperature until homogenously mixed. Gradually add Part B to
Part A while mixing with the propeller. Once Parts A and B are
mixed well, add Part C. Add Part D and adjust the pH to 6.8 (±0.2).
Properties:
Stability: ................................................ four weeks–stable at 0°C,
40°C,45°C, R.T and three freeze-thaw cycles
Appearance:....................................................................hazy liquid
pH:.....................................................................................6.8 (±0.2)
Viscosity: ..........................50mPas. @30rpm, spindle #3 at 30sec.
Source: Ajinomoto North America Inc.
Intelligent Skin Booster
(Formula # CN0043)
Self-foaming Cushion Feel Cleanser & Makeup Remover
(Formula # ASC-33-42-7)