Sun Care Formulary
Sprayable Anti-Aging Oil SPF 30
(Formula # AAK 26808/2)
Description: Lipex Shea Tris provides anti-inflammatory protection against
irritation from sunscreen actives, long-term protection from environmental
stress and helps reinforce the skin’s barrier layer. Lipex Shealight provides
increased solubility of sunscreen actives, a lightweight application and
enhanced skin feel. Lipex SheaClear provides increased moisturization of
the skin and helps clarity of the finished product. Lipex Omega 3/6 provides
an optimal balance of essential fatty acids to the skin. This formulation is
lightweight, preservative-free and developed specifically for spray components.
Through its “Kolo Nafaso” sustainability program, AAK helps to enrich the
lives of over 100,000 women working to harvest shea kernels in West Africa.
Trade Name/INCI Designation..............................................................%w/w
Part A
Lipex SheaLight/(Shea Butter Ethyl Esters)1............................................. 60.20
Lipex Shea Tris/(Butyrospermum parkii Shea Butter Extract)1.................... 0.50
Lipex SheaClear/(Butyrospermum parkii Shea Butter)1............................... 3.00
Lipex Omega 3/6/(Olus Oil and Camelina sativa Seed Oil)1................... 3.00
Part B
Parsol 1789/(Avobenzone)2.......................................................................... 3.00
Parsol HMS/(Homosalate)2....................................................................... 15.00
Parsol 340/(Octocrylene)2...........................................................................10.00
Parsol EHS/(Octisalate)2.............................................................................. 5.00
Part C
Toco 70 non-GMO/(Tocopherol and Helianthus annuus
Sunflower Seed Oil)3............................................................................... 0.30
Suppliers:
1AAK
2DSM
3Evonik/Dr. Straetmans
Procedure:
Blend ingredients in Part A and heat to 75°C. Mix until uniform. Blend
ingredients in Part B and heat to 75°C. Mix until uniform. Add Part A to
Part B at 75°C under moderate mixing. Cool to room temperature. Add
ingredients in Part C. Mix until uniform.
Source: AAK
Light & Clear Non-Aerosol Spray SPF 50+
(Formula # 200-10082)
Description: This anhydrous spray is water-resistant and clear upon application
on wet skin. This texture delivers a non-greasy light and dry finish
on the skin with very high UV protection. The formulation does not leave
the skin shiny and greasy because of light emollients. Ingredients include
Antaron ECo ethylcellulose, a nature-derived film-former that provides water
resistance without adding tack or viscosity; Escalol UV filters blend, a combination
of USA-approved UV filters that provide broad-spectrum UVA and
UVB protection and Ceraphyl esters blend, which provides a light feel while
delivering a clear application on wet skin.
Trade Name/INCI Designation..............................................................%w/w
Part A
Escalol 587 UV Filter/(Ethylhexyl Salicylate)1.............................................5.00
Escalol HMS UV Filter/(Homosalate)1......................................................12.00
Ceraphyl ICA Ester/(Isocetyl Alcohol)1.......................................................2.50
Antaron ECo Ethylcellulose/(Ethylcellulose)1.............................................1.00
Part B
Escalol 517 UV Filter/(Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane)1..............................3.00
Escalol 567 UV Filter/(Benzophenone-3)1........................................................6.00
Escalol 597 UV Filter/(Octocrylene)1...............................................................8.00
Ceraphyl SLK Ester/(Isodecyl Neopentanoate)1...............................................4.00
Tegosoft TN/(C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate)2.............................................................2.00
Cetiol CC/(Dicaprylyl Carbonate)3...................................................................3.50
Part C
Pelemol 89/(Ethylhexyl Isononanoate)4............................................................5.00
Dowsil FZ-3196/(Caprylyl Methicone)5.............................................................8.00
Part D
Pure Ethanol (200 Proof)/(Alcohol)................................................................40.00
Suppliers:
1Ashland
2Evonik
3BASF
4Phoenix Chemical
5Dow
Procedure:
In the main beaker, homogenize Part A ingredients while heating to 75°C until
homogeneous. In a side beaker, mix Part B while gently heating until fully dissolved
and clear. Combine Parts A and B in the main beaker at 70–75°C and
mix until homogeneous. Start to cool down the batch, add Part C ingredients
and continue mixing. At room temperature, add Part D and mix until homogeneous.
Stop at 25°C.
Properties:
Appearance: ................................................................................ clear yellow liquid
Viscosity (Brookfield RVT, spindle 2, 5 rpm, 1 min, 25°C):.................... <100 cps
SPF (in vitro): ........................................................................................................60
Water resistance (in vitro):............................................................................. 100%
Source: Ashland
Description: A non-clogging highly emollient spray that applies quickly and
evenly on skin. This formula has low-whitening with excellent slip for easy rubon.
It contains low-whitening Z-COTE HP1 X Zinc Oxide broad spectrum UV
filter and Cetiol Ultimate natural emollient (aerosol components courtesy of
Aptar).
Trade Name/INCI Designation...................................................................%w/w
Part A
Z-Cote HP1 X/(Zinc Oxide Nano Triethoxycaprylyisllane)1.........................20.00
Cetiol Ultimate/(Undercane and Tridecane)1..............................................16.00
Luvitol Lite EM/(Hydrogenated Polyisobutene)1............................................10.50
Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS/(Dimethicone)2.................................3.00
Pelemol PHS-8/(Polyhydroxysteraric Acid)3......................................................0.50
Part B
Propellant A46/(Propane/Isobutane)4............................................................50.00
Suppliers:
1BASF
2Dow Corning
3Phoenix Chemicals
4Aeropres Corp.
36 Spray May 2020
Spray-It! ZnO UV Protection (Theoretical SPF 30)
(Formula # UV-US-19-34968-110)