Personal Care
Ingredients
Alban Muller
Cytokalmine ER is a 100% natural dry
extract of pomegranate pericarp, in a
maltitol carrier, formulated to reduce the
general mechanism of inflammatory reaction
and oxidative stress. It helps reduce
the secretion of inflammatory cytokines
and decreases the production of Reactive
Oxygen Species (ROS) free radicals responsible
for skin inflammation resulting from
artificial blue light and different forms of
pollution.
Ashland
Ashland has introduced Suprastim biofunctional,
a solution to help relieve the
visible signs of skin fatigue and provide
an energy boost to skin care products.
Suprastim enables skin cells to re-balance
their natural energy flow, help revive
skin and give it a healthy glow. Studies
have shown that Suprastim can help skin
control the 11ß-HSD1 enzyme, which is
known to regulate cortisol levels in skin
cells. When stressed, the human body
can create cortisol almost constantly,
which can have a detrimental effect not
only on health and wellness but also on
skin. Suprastim is sourced from the Amazonian
super fruit camu camu, known by
the locals as the “youth berry.” It is rich
in vitamins and minerals with the highest
known content of vitamin C (30-60 times
more vitamin C than an orange) and an
antioxidant capacity five times that of
green tea, according to Ashland. Suprastim
contributes to three main benefits to skin:
antioxidant properties, increased collagen
production and reduced pigmentation.
BASF
BASF welcomes the official entry of
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
(MBBT) as a nano-sized UV
filter into Annex VI of the EU Cosmetic
Regulation. MBBT is an ingredient of
the BASF product Tinosorb M. Tinosorb
M has been on the market since 2000,
the year MBBT received its approval as a
cosmetic UV active ingredient, and has
not been changed since. An additional approval,
however, was required for products
in nano form due to the recast of the EU
cosmetic legislation (Regulation (EC) No.
1223/2009) in 2009.
Botanicals Plus
BP–GlycoNat is a minimum 97%+
naturally-derived glycolic acid 70%
solution (from sugar cane molasses)
that is free of formaldehyde/formic acid
and other impurities. BP–Willow Bark
Extract is a naturally-derived salicylic
acid and is a gentler and more effective ßhydroxy
acid, without the risk of irritation
typically caused by synthetically produced
salicylic acid.
Botanicals Plus has capitalized on the
power of fruits and plants together with
the knowledge of the power of Alpha
Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) to develop an
effective, yet gentle, blend of AHAs called
BP–Mlfruit Extract in AQ. It is a concentrated
blend of five botanical extracts:
bilberry, sugar cane, sugar maple, orange
and lemon. These extracts contain several
naturally-occurring AHAs.
Coatex
A new line of ingredients from Coatex
enables the simple formulation of
100% emulsifier-free skin care creams
with smooth textures, unique sensorial
properties and water resistance. RheostylTM
E-Cream imparts a rich, cushioned
texture, while offering enhanced thickening
efficiency and electrolyte tolerance.
RheostylTM E-Light was developed for
thin emulsions with water resistance and
a light, fresh feel. It is suitable for use in
applications such as sun care products.
DEINOVE
Consisting of phytoene concentrated in a
refined jojoba oil, Phyt-N-Resist helps fight
against skin aging by reducing oxidative
stress and accelerating skin repair. Phytoene
is a colorless carotenoid produced
through natural sugar fermentation by
Deinococcus geothermalis, an extremophile
bacterium.
Evonik
Skinolance, Evonik’s first microbiotic skin
care product, uses the cell-free lactobacillus
extract to promote the natural balance of
the skin flora by stimulating the growth of
certain beneficial bacteria. This has a positive
effect on the barrier function of the
skin helping to protect against roughness
and dryness.
Hairflux is an affordable ceramide
blend for hair and scalp care, which can
also be marketed in China (CFDA listing).
The olive-based ceramide has a soothing
effect on irritated scalps and makes damaged
hair more resistant due to the gentle
manufacturing process that preserves the
natural ingredients. The product is suitable
for use in hair tonics, care products
for the scalp as well as rinses and shampoos
for damaged hair.
Givaudan
Givaudan Active Beauty created VetivyneT,
a new patent-pending, powerful, active
ingredient with both anti-aging benefits
and long-lasting properties to enhance
fragrance wear. It was developed using
a water-soluble extract from exhausted
Haitian vetiver roots, a by-product of the
extraction procedure used to produce
vetiver oil for fragrances. The active is
fully natural, concentrated, odor-free and
offers clinically proven skin benefits. By
acting on the skin lipids, VetivyneT helps
enhance skin hydration and suppleness, as
well as removes wrinkles. It also boosts the
long-lastingness of fragrances.
Inolex
LexFeel WOW and LexFeel WOW DT
are 100% plant-based, sensory-enhancing
silicone alternatives with a luxurious and
light after-feel. Partially volatile and nonflammable,
LexFeel WOW and LexFeel
WOW DT are derived from 100% renewable
and sustainable building blocks, such
as coconut, castor bean and sugarcane.
They are palm-free, pending ECOCERT
and NSF certifications, and globally
approved for use in personal care and
cosmetic applications.
Lessonia
The third marine active ingredient developed
by Lessonia, Healthyskin restores
healthy epidermal physiological mecha-
34 Spray November 2018