disodium dimethicone copolyol sulfosuccinate, polysorbate 20
or Polawax. Potentially irritating surfactants, like sodium lauryl
sulfate (SLS) and its iterations, should be avoided. Fragrances
should be minimized and selected from hypoallergenic or very
mild types. Colorants are generally contra-indicated.
Product formulators can obtain valuable information from
emollient and humectant suppliers and a look at the ingredient
listings on the labels of products can be instructive. Not
surprisingly, consumers have many more questions and conversations
regarding these products than all other skin products
combined—an indication of their importance in addressing skin
health and good grooming.
Further considerations
The skin is subject to many problems, which often
increase with advancing age and exposure to
polluted urban air. Most are life-long. Emollients
or moisturizers, used daily, can reduce several of
these malaises, making the skin smoother, more
supple, better looking and less subject to itching and
inflammation. Consequently, a huge “cosmeceutical”
market has developed wherein combinations of these
skin conditioners are sold in the form of creams,
ointments, salves and lotions. The usual packaging is
jars or plastic bottles fitted with pump-action trigger
actuators. Aerosols, Bag-on-Valve (BOV) systems
and other pressurized options are continiually entering
the market.
Emollients and moisturizers are rated for longlasting
efficacy, oiliness, greasiness, spreading, tactile
or “cushioning” properties, chemical stability, lack
of color and odor, stickiness and (of course) cost.
Typical examples are isopropyl myristate (IPM) and
glycerin, each used at about 3% to 6%, but sometimes
much higher in pharmaceutical skin products.
As the U.S. population continues to age, and as
more people move into cities, the market for emollients
and moisturizers can be expected to increase.
While systemic options, such as pills and supplements,
may make future inroads, the broad consumer
acceptance and satisfaction with the current
products makes them very attractive to marketer
portfolios. Spray
Palmer’s Cocoa
Butter Formula
Spray Lotion for
Stretch Marks
soothes itchy,
stretching skin
with cocoa butter,
vitamin E, soy
lechithin and Bio
C-Elaste. The
200g aerosol
product is filled
by American
Spraytech.
Up & Up Spray Lotion, distributed by
Target, is available in Cocoa Butter, Dry
Skin and Aloe Fresh formulas and is
packaged in a BOV system with Moritz
twist-to-lock accessory from Aptar.
Mermaid Sea Spray
Lotion from Hallu
applies quickly and
evenly for maximum
hydration and
contains sea kelp.
The can is from Exal.
42 Spray October 2018