Most emollients and moisturizers can do more than simply decrease the TEWL. As an
example the benefits of dl. Panthenol (Pro-vitamin B5) can be summarized:
• Provides very long-lasting skin moisturization
• Imparts both luster and sheen to both skin and hair
• Thickens hair and reduces formation of “split ends”
• Imparts soothing and enhances healing rate of dry skin
and eczema areas
• Reduces skin inflammation
• Improves pigmentation problems
• Increases nail flexibility–fewer broken, split or brittle
fingernails
• Can oxidize, forming Vitamin B5 in the skin and body
• Cholinergic and nutritional factors
Some other moisturizers may be more effective in combinations
of two or more. Urea can be considered as multifunctional in that
it can reduce not only dry skin (zeroderma) but ichthyosis, eczema
and psoriasis, while also improving the TEWL activity. The ideal
skin conditioners will reduce dryness and improve the barrier function.
The poor ones will deteriorate the barrier operations in normal
skin. The products should be utilized proactively to prevent skin
dryness from taking place. Most consumers understand this, which
explains the large sales volume and preemptive use on healthy skin
in addition to diseased skin.
In formulating emollient and moisturizer products, other ingredients
TABLE FOUR
Typical Moisturizers
Propylene Glycol
1,3-Proanediol
2,3-Butanediol
can be important. For example, non-irritating surfactants should be used, such as
Sorbitol
d and dl Panthenol
Lactic Acid
Potassium Lactate
Glycereth-7
PPG-5 Tocopheneth-2
Propylene Glycol Citrate
Glutamic Acid
Urea
October 2018 SPRAY 41