mulas. CapSol sunscreen oleosomes offer an ability to efficiently
hold, deliver, and release skin-nourishing ingredients and organic
UV filters. When spread onto the skin’s surface, the oleosomes
collapse, evenly distributing protein, oil and UV actives. Once applied,
a uniform film is formed. A high degree of distribution efficiency,
in conjunction with film formation, affords a lower level
of organic actives necessary to achieve high SPF, broad-spectrum
formulas. Botanco embeds a minimum of UVA and UVB filter
inside the triglyceride core and on the outer shell.
Microscopic examinations of the sunscreen-containing oleosomes
indicate that the organelle holds the UV filters securely on
the surface and in small oil droplets stabilized within the emulsion.
CapSol oleosomes emulsify up to three times their weight in
oils and may load up to 30% of their weight in oil-soluble actives.
They are suitable for producing trend-forward SPF creams and
lotions. Adding CapSol sunscreen oleosomes to formulations
boost moisturization, hydration, barrier protection and textural
improvements.
CRODA
The Solaveil Clarus range of inorganic sunscreen dispersions from
Croda is a range of easy-to-use sunscreen dispersions that contain
a new generation of inorganic filters. Tightly controlled particle
size distribution provides transparency on skin while maintaining
UV protection. The Solaveil Clarus CZ dispersions contain
zinc oxide (ZnO) to provide UVA protection whereas the Solaveil
Clarus CT dispersions contain titanium dioxide (TiO2) to provide
UVB protection. These two product ranges can be used in combination
with other UV filters or each other to ensure broad spectrum
protection from the UV spectrum. The dispersion systems
are easy to use and deliver an elegant skin feel. The mildness of
Solaveil Clarus dispersions makes them suitable for all skin types
including babies, children and adult sensitive skin.
Givaudan Active Beauty
Vegetan Gold (INCI: PEG-8 caprylic/capric glycerides and water
and dihydroxyacetone and octyldodeceth 25) is used in formulating
self-tanning products. Pure docosahexaenoic acid (DHA)
(16%) is formulated into a microemulsion that enables formulators
to incorporate DHA into oily formulations. Vegetan Gold
allows formulators to develop luxurious, transparent, self-tanning
oils with extra texture that reveal a natural tanning effect, according
to Givaudan Active Beauty. Furthermore, its high sun filter
compatibility permits the formulation of high SPF oils, delivering
a new feeling for sun care products. At 30%, Vegetan Gold brings
a natural and very uniform tan that is significantly visible three
hours after the first application. The tanning effect increases with
time if the product is regularly reapplied. Vegetan Gold is said to
be suitable for sprayable tanning oils, SPF tanning sun oils, BB
oils and tan enhancing products.
INOLEX
LexFilm Sun Natural (capryloyl glycerin/sebacic acid copolymer)
is the latest ingredient advancement in INOLEX’s portfolio of
all natural sun care products. A plant-based, multi-dimensional
polymer, it delivers patented sun care technology suitable
for a variety of applications, including skin care, hair care
and color cosmetics. The all-natural film former is produced
using the principles of Green chemistry and derived entirely
from renewable and sustainable building-blocks. It is in process
to receive ECOCERT, COSMOS, NATRUE and NSF
certifications. The incorporation of film formers in SPF
formulations is a key factor in achieving uniform coverage
and protection. LexFilm Sun Natural is a pourable viscous
fluid that allows for an optimized formulation process and
manufacturing ease. The result is an easy to work with, allnatural
film former technology that delivers a smooth, more
even application with immediate and consistent aesthetic
appeal.
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies
Sensient launched its new ultrafine, low whitening TiO2:
UVR TiO2. Now available in dispersion, Covascreen UVR
CCT offers easier incorporation and even lower whitening effect
upon application. Sensient has also been working on improving
docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) stability in colored sunless
tanning formulations by introducing its FHP treatment,
a powerful surface treatment for pigments that prevents iron
oxide from degrading sensitive actives via oxidation.
Shin-Etsu
Shin-Etsu’s KP series acrylates, KF8000s amodimethicone
gums and KF series MQ resins were formulated to enhance
sunscreen textures and effectiveness. In-vitro testing of
the sunscreen containing KP-545L and KF-7312L and the
sunscreen with KF-7312L and KF-8020 confirmed broad spectrum
as well as reduced transmissivity in comparison to the
control containing none of these materials. KP-545L and KF-
7312L showed enhanced protection and water resistance at
as low as 2.5% in a 1:1 ratio. The evaporation of the selected
diluent, DMF-2cs, deposits the polymer onto the skin as a
continuous film that is comfortable, flexible and non-tacky.
Sytheon Ltd.
Synoxyl HSS (INCI: Trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione)
is a photo-stabilizer and in-vivo SPF booster with
antioxidant properties. It stabilizes avobenzone and boosts
in-vivo SPF by 50% or more for both organic and inorganic
sunscreens. At 0.5-2.5% use levels, Synoxyl HSS maintains
product integrity by improving photostability via its
triplet-quenching action. In both organic and inorganic sunscreens,
the presence of Synoxyl HSS enhanced the in-vivo
SPF of the product by 50% or more, according to Sytheon.
Furthermore, Synoxyl HSS significantly (p<0.05) inhibited
the undesirable actions of NOX enzymes which, according
to Sytheon, is a key strategy for reducing radical formation
which, in turn, reduces skin aging. At the same time,
Synoxyl HSS fully degrades in six weeks and is non-toxic to
aquatic invertebrates and aquatic algae. Synoxyl HSS is suitable
for all types of skin care applications. Spray
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