New
Ingredients
for Sun Care
AAK
Lipex SheaLight (shea butter ethyl esters) is a versatile shea-based
ingredient innovation consisting of a set of lightweight shea esters
derived from agriculturally-sourced ethyl alcohol and the various
fatty acids of shea butter. Its lightweight feel and low viscosity are
suited for direct application of sprayable product platforms. The
renewable, sustainable and complex composition contains the
various fatty acids found in shea (oleic, stearic, palmitic, linoleic)
and exhibits functional complexity not available within homogeneous
molecular species ingredients.
According to AAK, in studies comparing SheaLight to common
pigment-wetting emollients in mineral-based sun care formulas,
SheaLight consistently handled higher pigment loads with lower
viscosities. It is believed that because of SheaLight’s heterogeneous
composition, irregular particles of pigment can be more
easily dispersed and thus prevent viscosity build as pigment load is
increased. As well, its dispersing ability diminishes the whiteness
of mineral sunscreen pigments relative to other pigment-wetting
emollients at the same load. The desirable combination of low
viscosity and high pigment load makes SheaLight a suitable shea
ingredient for mineral-based, sprayable sunscreen products.
Lipex SheaLight also performs well as a solvent of organic sunscreens
and provides comparable solubility to the common and
widely used synthetic emollients found in sunscreen products.
Third party clinical studies have shown that SheaLight has an SPF
enhancing effect similar to that of synthetic sunscreen active solvents.
Additionally, SheaLight functions as a sensorial improver,
reducing the tack and drag often associated with crystalline and
high molecular weight sunscreen actives and the polymers used
for water-resistance in sunscreen products.
Lipex SheaClear (Butyrospermum Parkii Shea Oil) is as functional
liquid shea oil that can be used in a sprayable format without
being first solubilized into another emollient or solvent. It is
specially processed to remove all residual heavy waxes in the shea
oil while retaining the high natural content of shea triterpene esters
for skin care functionality. The processing of Lipex SheaClear
provides for clean delivery in sprayable systems while maintaining
a low cloud point for optically clear formulations popular in many
sprayable hair and body oil treatment formulations.
In addition, Lipex SheaClear is suited for personal care and
cosmetic applications with an oxidative stability about 10 times
higher than many available vegetable oils. The combination of
a clear profile, high stability and rich content of shea triterpene
esters establishes Lipex SheaClear as suitable for functional spray
formulations. Shea triterpene esters have numerous therapeutic
properties, including anti-inflammatory effects that are achieved
by inhibiting a series of pro-inflammatory factors within the skin
cell’s bio-molecular inflammation pathway.
Actives International
Et-VC, a vitamin C derivative from Actives International, not only
provides whitening effects, but also acts as an anti-aging active that
boosts collagen synthesis and prevents DNA damage. According
to Actives International, new data indicates that the product
can protect skin from UVB damage. Sunscreen products that
contain 3% Et-VC have enhanced UV protection, suggesting that
Et-VC as a topical antioxidant supplement can help improve the
performance of sunscreen products. It also scavenges free radicals,
fights photoaging, reduces dark spots, evens skin tone and inhibits
melanogenesis. It has applications in a range of products, including
sun care, skin whitening/lightening, anti-aging with dark spot
correction and BB/CC creams.
BASF
Tinosorb S Lite Aqua from BASF is based on a technology that
brings broad-band UV protection to the water phase. It is the
water-dispersible form of its oil-soluble counterpart Tinosorb S.
This allows cosmetic manufacturers to reduce the UV filter load
in the oil phase for more formulation flexibility and lighter formulations.
Distributing the UV filter load between the oil and water
phase helps boost the SPF and UVA protection factor. Thus,
Tinosorb S Lite Aqua is a candidate for low viscous formulations
that benefit from a reduced oil phase. Due to the properties of
Tinosorb S Lite Aqua, water resistance can be achieved in spite of
having a UV filter in the water phase.
Botaneco
CapSol sunscreen oleosomes are 100% natural, complex organelles
of safflower seeds, approximately 1–3 microns in size. They
contain oleosin proteins, a phospholipid membrane and triacylglycerol—
components that nourish the skin, and at the same time,
reduce the amount of actives necessary to obtain stable SPF for-
22 Spray May 2018