Properties: Appearance: ...............................Glossy and slightly yellow fluid emulsion pH: ............................................................................................... 6.3 ± 0.3 Viscosity Brookfield RV (spindle A, speed 5):....................................approx. 5000 mPa.s after 24H Source: Gattefossé Description: Nourishing, ultra-fine skin softening mist of transparent dry oil. It is absorbed instantly to leave skin glowingly smooth and effectively protected in the sun. Suitable for high SPF factors and compatible with both solid and crystalline UV filters. As based on Lipex SheaLight, it provides superior application features, depositing UV filter evenly, without greasiness and tackiness. Without SPFs, the formula can be used as the base for a nourishing dry oil spray, with the option to add anti-aging actives, such as Lipex SheaTris or essential oils. Formulation is sprayable, forming a fine mist. Trade Name/INCI Designation %w/w Part A Lipex SheaLight/(Shea Butter Ethyl Esters)1 ................................... ad.100 Parsol 1789/(Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane) .................................. 5.00 Uvinul A Plus B/(Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate) ............................... 10.00 Tinosorb S/(Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine) ........ 6.00 Antaron V-216/(VP/Hexadecene copolymer) ..................................... 0.50 Part B Ethanol/(Alcohol) ................................................................................ 9.00 Part C Lipex SheaClear/(Butyrospermum Parkii Oil)1 .................................... 5.00 Akomed R/(Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides)1 ......................................... 1.50 Lipex PreAct/(Canola Oil)1 .................................................................. 1.00 Fragrance/(Perfume) .............................................................................. q.s. Suppliers: 1AAK Procedure: Blend Part A and start heating to 75°C. Cool oil part to room temperature. Add B to A while mixing. Premix components of Part C and add during stirring. Mix until clear solution achieved. Source: AAK Part C Novethix L-10/(Water, Acrylates/ Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer)4 .............................................. 1.00 Part D Sodium Hydroxide (10 % Sol.)/ (Water, Sodium Hydroxide) .................................................................. 0.05 Part E E.D.T.A. Disodium Salt/(Disodium Edta) ............................................ 0.10 Part F Emulfree CBG/(Isostearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol Cocoate, Ethylcellulose)2 ..................................................................................... 5.00 Parsol 1789/(Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane)5 ................................. 3.00 Parsol EHS/(Ethylhexyl Salicylate)5 ...................................................... 5.00 Parsol MCX/(Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate)5 .................................... 7.50 Neo Heliopan HMS/(Homosalate)6 ..................................................... 7.00 Solastay S1/(Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene)7 .......................................... 2.00 Hallbrite BHB/(Butyl Octyl Salycilate)7 ............................................... 4.00 Tinogard TL/(Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol)8 ................................. 1.00 Part G Preservative ........................................................................................... 0.70 Part H Valvance Touch 210/(Silica)5 ................................................................ 1.00 Part I Parfum Dome Relax RS59716/(Parfum)9 ............................................. 0.30 Part J Sodium Hydroxide (10 % Sol.)/(Water, Sodium Hydroxide) ............... 0.10 Suppliers: 1Dow 2Gattefossé 3Cargill 4Lubrizol 5DSM Nutritional Products 6Symrise 7Hallstar 8BASF 9Technico-Flor Procedure: Disperse the Sunspheres Powder into water+Cocate BG and heat up to 55°C then homogenized with an Ultra Turrax (13,000 rpm) for 15 minutes (cocoate BG is added in to reduce the formation of foam). Then add Part B into Part A under mixing. Mix for 10 minutes to let the gel swell. Then add Part C and Part D to neutralize the Carbopol. Then add Part E and heat up to 55°C. Heat Part F up to 78°C until complete solubilization. Introduce slowly Part F (75°C) into Part A-E (55°C) under mixing 1,500 rpm and maintain mixing for 30 minutes. During the cooling step, maintain the mixing at 1,200 rpm. At 35°C add Part G , H and I and mix at 1,200 rpm for five minutes. Then add Part J to adjust pH at 6.3 and mix for five minutes at 1,200 rpm. Cool down to 25°C under mixing. Feathermist Dry Oil SPF 30 (Formula #AAK-15-002) May 2017 Spray 29
Spray May 2017
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