Gaining an Advantage
Refreshing the dry shampoo category’s performance and hair vibrancy…
David C. Streuli, Panagiota Antonopoulos and Linda C. Foltis, Ashland LLC
With the hectic, on-the-go lifestyles of today,
consumers look for hair care products that
allow them to look their best from one day to
the next. Dry shampoos are a good choice for consumers
to complement their hair cleansing ritual. These easyto
use formulas provide consumers an option to refresh
their hair, prolong hair styles, help prevent hair damage,
preserve hair color and conserve excess water usage all
from one product. In the U.S. alone, 43% of consumers
aged 18–34 use a dry or no-rinse shampoo (Mintel, August
2017). When asked how often they use dry shampoo at
home, 37% of U.S. consumers aged 18+ stated that they
used them a few times a week (Mintel, December 2018).
While traditional shampoo use is universal, the dry
shampoo market is expanding globally. Projected to grow
at a rate of 6.2% from 2017 to 2022, the global dry shampoo
market is expected to reach an estimated value of $4.1
billion by the end of 2022 (Transparency Market Research).
Newer formats are being launched, but sprays remain the
leader with nearly 50% of global launches falling under sprays,
mists and spritzes. (Mintel GNPD).
Interestingly, many of the commercial formulas on the market
today, regardless of price-point, are based on similar starch-based
technologies. While these formulas may work for some consumers,
others can be left disappointed. Some consumer feedback described
formulas as leaving hair looking lifeless, dull, less refreshed,
with visible residue, even after the recommend brush-out, and in
some cases, just as greasy (UIta.com and Sephora.com reviews). In addition,
consumers were unable to use their entire can since some
cans would stop working after a few uses.
Ashland has attempted to refresh the dry shampoo market with
its latest introduction, Advantage Revive polymer. The patentpending
ingredient provides cleaning and oil absorption while
leaving visibly less residue. Hair is left more manageable, feeling
cleaner and looking shinier with enhanced luster. Our studies have
demonstrated that Advantage Revive polymer leaves hair visibly
cleaner, matching the appearance of freshly washed hair. This polymer
can also be used to deliver texture and style-boosting benefits
as it absorbs oil at the root and scalp, providing next day hair that
looks as good as the first day.
Sebum be gone
Advantage Revive polymer is a non-ionic homopolymer of polyvinyl
pyrrolidone (PVP). PVP is well established in the personal care,
pharmaceutical and wound care markets for both oral and topical
applications. It is biologically inert, has low toxicity and is oxygen
permeating. PVP consists of hydrophobic methylene groups and
hydrophilic imide groups. It utilizes the unique structure of PVP
produced through an enhanced process, resulting in a highly porous
powder with a large surface area that helps to readily absorb
and adsorb sebum. Additionally, the powder has an optimized
particle size allowing for aerosol spray application and easy dispersion.
It is not subject to agglomerative sedimentation, providing
for a range of product forms, propellant/solvent types and delivery
aesthetics (Figure 1).
Advantage Revive polymer is very efficient in absorbing sebum,
allowing for the minimization of raw material usage and helping to
provide improved cleaning at less than half the use level. Sorption
analysis of synthetic sebum has determined the sorptive capacity
to be 2.28 g/g (±0.09) versus
a hydrophobically modified
starch at less than 0.44 g/g
(±0.02)—representing more
than a five times increase.
Measurements were obtained
by weighing a fixed amount
of material and slowly adding
sebum at an elevated temperature.
Observations are made as
the mixture goes from a taffy
and cohesive phase (solid-like)
to a liquid-like phase with free
sebum. The sorption capacity
is determined by the amount
of sebum sorbed prior to
transitioning to the liquid-like
system. The maximum amount
of sebum absorbed by Advantage
Revive as compared to the modified starch at the same level is
shown in Figure 2.
By efficiently removing sebum as demonstrated, and with the
delivery of lower residue, Advantage Revive polymer provides more
manageable hair with a natural feeling. There is less fiber clumping,
resulting in the appearance of vibrant color and shine (Figure
3). In each example, sebum is applied to the hair, followed by the
application of the test material, worked through and brushed.
Imaging revelations
Hyperspectral imaging was employed to quantify these observed
32 Spray July 2019
Figure 1: Agglomerative sedimentation of starch-based system (left),
Advantage Revive (right).
Figure 2: Sebum absorption; Advantage
Revive polymer (left), hydrophobically
modified starch (right).